Shipping Label Guides
Everything that decides whether a label works: the format a carrier expects, the print settings that quietly ruin barcodes, where shipping costs actually go, and the marks regulated goods need.
Guides in this section
Free Shipping Label Maker
A shipping label maker turns two addresses into a print-ready file. Ours produces a PDF sized for either a 4×6 thermal printer or standard letter paper, with no account and no software install.
How to Create a Shipping Label
Creating a shipping label means producing a document a carrier can read. There are two routes — a carrier account that also sells you postage, or a generator that produces the label alone — and picking the wrong one is the most common mistake.
How to Print a Shipping Label
Most label problems are print problems, not label problems. The file is usually fine; the print dialog quietly rescaled it. Here is what to set, and what to do if you have no printer at all.
How to Get Cheap Shipping Labels
Label costs split into two very different things: the postage, which is where nearly all the money is, and the physical label, which is pennies. Most people optimise the wrong one.
Lithium Battery Shipping Labels
Lithium cells are regulated as dangerous goods. Which mark your parcel needs depends on the cell type, the watt-hour rating, and whether the battery ships alone, with equipment, or inside it — and the rules are revised regularly.
Need the template itself?
If you just want to fill in a label and print it, use the shipping label template tool — it takes both addresses and gives you a print-ready PDF in 4×6 or letter format. The guides below cover everything around that: choosing a size, getting the print settings right, cutting the cost, and handling regulated shipments.
What goes on a shipping label
Every shipping label carries the same core information, and the layout conventions exist because two different readers have to use it. Automated sorters scan the barcode; when automation fails, a person reads the address. A good template serves both.
The recipient address is the most prominent element and belongs in the lower-centre area of the label. The sender address sits smaller, top-left. Any barcode needs a blank margin on all four sides — the quiet zone — because scanners use that blank space to work out where the barcode begins and ends. Crowding it with text or a border is one of the most common reasons a label scans inconsistently.
4×6 or letter size?
These are the two formats worth using, and the choice follows your printer rather than your preference.
4×6 inches is the industry standard, sized for direct-thermal printers such as Rollo, DYMO and Zebra. It prints edge-to-edge with no trimming, uses no ink, and takes a couple of seconds per label. If you ship regularly, this is the setup that costs least to run.
Letter size (8.5×11) works with any inkjet or laser printer, either on adhesive sheets or on plain paper attached with clear tape. There is nothing second-rate about it — carriers accept letter-format labels without issue. It is simply slower per label and costs more in ink than thermal stock costs in labels.
The combination to avoid is printing a 4×6 label onto letter paper and trimming it by hand. Hand-trimmed labels usually end up marginally undersized and the cut edges lift in transit.
Print at 100%, always
If you take one thing from this page, take this. In the print dialog, set scaling to Actual size or 100% — never Fit to page, which is usually the default.
Fit-to-page shrinks the label by a few percent so nothing is clipped by the printer’s unprintable margin. That small reduction narrows the barcode modules past the width scanners are built to read. The label looks perfect to you and scans intermittently in the sorting facility — which is the worst kind of failure, because you have no idea anything is wrong until the parcel is delayed.
Check the first label with a ruler. A 4×6 label should measure exactly four inches by six.
What a template does not include
A template produces an address label. It does not buy postage, and it cannot generate a valid carrier tracking barcode — those are issued by the carrier at the moment postage is paid for. Any tool claiming to generate a working tracking barcode is producing something that will not scan.
That still leaves plenty of real uses: prepaid drop-offs, couriers who invoice monthly, internal transfers between your own sites, return labels enclosed in an outbound box, and freight consignments where the carrier issues paperwork separately. If you need postage purchased and tracking issued, you want a carrier account instead — and knowing which of the two you need is the thing that trips up most first-time shippers.
Free Shipping Label Maker
A shipping label maker turns two addresses into a print-ready file. Ours produces a PDF sized for either a 4×6 thermal printer or standard letter paper, with no account and no software install.
What a label maker actually has to get right
Most people arrive at a label maker after trying to format a label in a word processor and discovering that the margins fight them. The specific problem is that carriers read labels with scanners, and scanners need predictable geometry — a quiet zone around the barcode, consistent font sizes, and an address block that sits in a known position. A word processor gives you none of that by default.
A purpose-built maker fixes the geometry so you don't have to think about it. You supply the sender address, the recipient address, and optionally a reference or order number. What comes out is a file whose dimensions match the label stock you're printing on, with the text positioned where a human sorter and a scanner both expect to find it.
The second thing that matters is output format. A PDF at exactly 4×6 inches prints edge-to-edge on thermal stock without scaling. If a tool hands you an image or an oddly-sized page, your printer driver will scale it to fit, and scaling is what causes the classic problem of a label that prints slightly too small with a white border and a barcode that won't scan reliably.
Making a label: the five fields that matter
From address. This is where the parcel returns if it can't be delivered, so it needs to be a real address you control. Include a business name if you have one — sorters use it, and recipients are more likely to accept a parcel from a named sender.
To address. The single most common cause of a delayed parcel is an incomplete recipient address, usually a missing apartment or unit number. If the address has a secondary designator, put it on the same line as the street address or the line immediately below — never on the line with the city.
Size. 4×6 if you have a thermal printer, letter if you're printing on adhesive sheets or plain paper with tape. This choice changes the output file, not just the preview.
Reference. Optional, but useful. An order number here saves you cross-referencing later when a customer asks about a shipment.
Return instructions. Also optional. Sellers who accept returns often print a second label with the addresses reversed rather than a separate returns process.
Thermal versus inkjet, and why it decides your workflow
A direct-thermal printer uses heat-sensitive stock and no ink at all. There is no cartridge to replace, printing takes two to three seconds, and the running cost is just the labels. If you ship more than a handful of parcels a week, this is the setup that pays for itself fastest — the printer is the only real cost, and thermal labels are inexpensive per unit.
An inkjet or laser printer with adhesive letter sheets is the right answer if you ship occasionally. There is nothing wrong with it: carriers accept letter-size labels, and the scan quality from a laser printer is excellent. The friction is that you're cutting or peeling, and ink or toner costs more per label than thermal stock.
The one combination to avoid is printing a 4×6 label on letter paper and trimming it by hand. It works, but the trimmed label often ends up slightly undersized, and the adhesive-free edges lift in transit. If you're on letter paper, use a letter-format label.
Where a free maker fits — and where it doesn't
A label maker produces the *document*. It does not buy postage. That distinction confuses a lot of first-time shippers: a label you print from any generator is an address label, and it gets your parcel routed correctly, but the carrier still needs to be paid.
That's the right tool for several real situations. Prepaid drop-offs where postage is already settled. Internal transfers between your own locations. Parcels going out with a courier who invoices you monthly. Return labels included in an outbound box. Freight and pallet consignments where the carrier generates the tracking paperwork separately.
If you need postage *purchased* and a tracking number issued, you want a carrier account or a postage reseller, not a label maker. Both have their place, and using the wrong one is the source of most of the confusion people have on this topic.
Common questions
Is this shipping label maker really free?
Creating and downloading the label is free with no account. What you're producing is an address label — a print-ready document. It does not include purchased postage, which is a separate transaction with a carrier.
Do I need to install anything?
No. It runs in the browser and outputs a PDF. That also means it works the same on a Mac, a PC, or a phone, which matters if you're printing from a phone to a network printer.
Will the barcode scan?
A label maker produces the address block and any reference you enter. Carrier tracking barcodes are issued by the carrier when postage is bought — a generator cannot create a valid tracking barcode, and any tool claiming otherwise is producing something that will not scan.
Can I save a label and reprint it later?
Download the PDF and keep it. Reprinting from the saved file gives you an identical label, which matters if the first one is damaged in handling — a re-generated label can differ subtly if you retype an address.
How to Create a Shipping Label
Creating a shipping label means producing a document a carrier can read. There are two routes — a carrier account that also sells you postage, or a generator that produces the label alone — and picking the wrong one is the most common mistake.
Decide first: do you need postage, or just the label?
Everything downstream depends on this. If the parcel needs postage paid and a tracking number, you need a carrier account (UPS, USPS, FedEx, DHL) or a postage reseller. The label they generate carries a tracking barcode tied to a paid transaction.
If postage is already handled — a prepaid drop-off, a courier who invoices monthly, an internal transfer, a return label going inside a box — then you need the label document only, and a free generator produces it in under a minute.
People get stuck here because both things are called "shipping labels". They are different artefacts. One is a paid transaction with a scannable tracking barcode; the other is a correctly-formatted address block. Both are legitimate; they solve different problems.
The four steps
1. Gather both addresses in full. Sender and recipient, including any unit, suite, or apartment number. Verify the postcode independently rather than trusting memory — a transposed digit routes a parcel to the wrong sorting facility and can add days.
2. Choose the label size. 4×6 inches is the industry standard and what thermal printers expect. Letter size works on any inkjet or laser printer using adhesive sheets. The choice determines the file you generate, so make it before you create the label rather than after.
3. Generate the label. Enter the addresses, add a reference or order number if you want one, and produce the PDF. Check the preview: the recipient address should be the most prominent element on the label, larger than the sender address.
4. Print at 100% scale. This is where most labels go wrong. In the print dialog, set scaling to "Actual size" or 100% — not "Fit to page". Fit-to-page shrinks the label by a few percent, which is enough to make a barcode fall outside its readable tolerance.
The mistakes that actually delay parcels
Missing unit numbers. By a wide margin the most common cause of a failed delivery. If the address has an apartment, suite, or unit, it belongs on the street line or the line directly beneath it.
Printing at fit-to-page. Scales the label down, moves the barcode, and can push it outside scanner tolerance. Always print at 100%.
Old labels left on reused boxes. Sorting is increasingly automated, and a scanner does not know which of two barcodes is current. Remove or completely cover any previous label — a marker line through it is not enough.
Tape across the barcode. Shiny packing tape creates glare that defeats laser scanners. Tape around the label, not over the barcode. If the label must be protected, use a proper adhesive pouch.
Handwritten corrections. If an address changes, generate a new label. A crossed-out and rewritten address slows manual sorting and is frequently misread.
What the carrier does with your label
Understanding this makes the formatting rules feel less arbitrary. When a parcel enters the network it passes through automated sorters that photograph and scan it, often several times. Each scan needs to find the barcode quickly, read it cleanly, and pass the parcel to the correct chute.
The address block matters at a different stage. When automation cannot resolve a parcel — damaged barcode, unreadable scan — a person reads the address and routes it manually. That's why the recipient address needs to be the largest text on the label and why a clear, complete address is worth more than a decorative layout.
The quiet zone around a barcode — the blank margin on all four sides — exists because scanners use it to detect where the barcode starts and ends. Text or a border crowding that margin is a common reason an otherwise perfect label scans inconsistently.
Common questions
Can I create a shipping label without an account?
You can create the label document without an account. Buying postage always requires an account with a carrier or reseller, because it is a payment transaction.
Can I write a shipping label by hand?
For a parcel dropped at a counter where the clerk generates the postage label, a handwritten address is usually accepted. For anything entering automated sorting with a prepaid label, printed is strongly preferable — handwriting is a leading cause of misrouting.
What size should a shipping label be?
4×6 inches is the standard for thermal printers and what most carriers design their labels around. Letter size is fine for inkjet and laser printing on adhesive sheets. Both are accepted.
How long is a shipping label valid?
Policies vary by carrier, and a purchased postage label generally has a window measured in days to weeks from the ship date. If a label has been sitting unused, check with the carrier before dropping the parcel rather than assuming it is still live.
How to Print a Shipping Label
Most label problems are print problems, not label problems. The file is usually fine; the print dialog quietly rescaled it. Here is what to set, and what to do if you have no printer at all.
The one setting that causes most failures
In the print dialog, scaling must be 100% or Actual size. Not "Fit to page", not "Shrink to fit", not "Scale to paper size". Fit-to-page is usually the default, and it reduces the label by a small percentage to guarantee nothing is clipped by the printer's unprintable margin.
That small reduction is the problem. Barcodes have a specified module width — the thickness of the narrowest bar — and scanners are built around it. Shrink the whole label by four or five percent and the modules narrow past the point where a scanner reads them reliably. The label looks perfect to you and scans intermittently in the sorting facility, which is the worst possible failure mode because it is invisible until the parcel is delayed.
After printing, check the label's physical size with a ruler. A 4×6 label should measure four inches by six inches. If it measures slightly less, scaling was applied and the printer settings need fixing before you send anything.
Thermal printer settings
Set the media size in the printer driver to match the label stock exactly — 4×6 for standard shipping labels. Thermal drivers usually ship with a default that is close but not identical, which produces a small offset on every label.
Darkness or density is the second setting worth attention. Too light and the barcode bars have soft edges that scan poorly; too dark and the bars bleed into each other, which also fails. Print one label, scan it with a phone barcode app, and adjust one step at a time from the middle of the range.
If labels come out consistently offset by the same amount, the printer needs calibration rather than a driver change. Most thermal printers have a media-calibration routine that feeds a few labels and learns the gap between them — running it after changing label stock resolves most alignment complaints.
Inkjet and laser on adhesive sheets
Use the correct paper-type setting. Selecting "Labels" or "Heavy paper" slows the feed and increases ink drying time, which prevents smudging on adhesive stock. Left on plain-paper settings, an inkjet can lay down ink faster than the label surface absorbs it.
Print in black and white. Colour adds nothing a scanner uses and consumes ink. Greyscale also produces crisper barcode edges than a composite black mixed from colour cartridges — if your driver offers "black ink only", use it.
Let inkjet labels dry for a minute before handling. Fresh ink on label stock smears easily, and a smeared barcode is unreadable. Laser output is fused and can be handled immediately.
Printing without a printer
Save the PDF and take it to a print shop, an office supply store, or a shipping store — nearly all will print from a USB drive or an emailed file. Ask for a single-sided black-and-white page at actual size, and say it is a shipping label so they don't apply fit-to-page.
Many carrier locations will also print a label from a QR code or a tracking reference at the counter, which sidesteps printing entirely. This varies by carrier and location, so confirm before travelling.
If you are printing to a shared or network printer from a phone, the mobile print dialog often has fewer scaling options than a desktop one. Where possible, print the label from a computer so you can verify the scale setting explicitly.
Common questions
Why does my printed shipping label look small?
Almost certainly fit-to-page scaling in the print dialog. Set scaling to 100% or Actual size and reprint, then confirm the label measures its stated size with a ruler.
Can I print a shipping label on regular paper?
Yes. Print it on plain paper and attach it with clear tape around the edges — not across the barcode. It is entirely acceptable to carriers; adhesive stock is a convenience, not a requirement.
Should I print in colour?
No. Black and white is what scanners read, it costs less, and on an inkjet it usually produces sharper bar edges than a colour-composite black.
Can I print two labels on one page?
You can if the page format supports it, but cut carefully and keep the quiet zone — the blank margin around the barcode — intact. Cutting into that margin is a common cause of scan failures.
How to Get Cheap Shipping Labels
Label costs split into two very different things: the postage, which is where nearly all the money is, and the physical label, which is pennies. Most people optimise the wrong one.
Commercial rates versus counter rates
Carriers publish more than one price for the same movement. The rate at a retail counter is the highest. Rates available through a business account, an online postage platform, or a marketplace integration are lower — often materially so — for the identical service.
This is the single biggest lever for a small shipper, and it is available without volume commitments. Marketplace-integrated postage (the label you buy inside eBay, Etsy, Poshmark, Mercari and similar) is generally priced off a commercial rate card rather than the retail one, which is why sellers who buy postage at the post office counter are usually overpaying for the same parcel.
The practical step is to compare the same parcel, same service, priced three ways: at the counter, through a postage platform, and through whatever marketplace you sell on. The spread is frequently larger than people expect.
Dimensional weight — the charge people don't see coming
Carriers bill on the greater of actual weight and dimensional weight. Dimensional weight is computed from the box's outside measurements divided by a carrier-specific divisor. A large, light parcel is therefore billed as though it were heavy.
This is why a right-sized box saves more than a lighter one. Shipping a small item in a large box with void fill can cost several times what the same item costs in a box that fits it, even though the scale reading barely changes.
Measure the box, not the item, and measure the outside including any bulge. A box that measures a fraction over a dimensional threshold is billed at the higher tier, and reducing one dimension by an inch sometimes drops an entire rate band. If you ship the same product repeatedly, this is worth doing once properly — the saving repeats on every parcel.
The label itself: thermal economics
Direct-thermal labels cost a small amount each and need no ink or toner. A thermal printer is a one-off cost that pays back quickly at even modest volume, because you stop buying cartridges entirely.
Against that, inkjet printing onto adhesive letter sheets carries both the sheet cost and the ink cost, and ink is the expensive half. If you are printing more than a few labels a week on an inkjet, the cartridge spend alone usually exceeds what thermal stock would cost.
Buy thermal labels in fanfold stacks rather than small rolls if you have the storage — per-label pricing drops noticeably at quantity, and thermal stock keeps well as long as it is stored away from heat and direct light.
Discounts and free supplies people miss
Carriers supply free packaging for their own flat-rate and branded services. If your parcel fits one of those formats, the box costs nothing and the rate is fixed regardless of weight within the limit — for dense, heavy items this is frequently the cheapest option available.
Regional and consolidator services undercut the national carriers on some lanes, particularly for lightweight parcels where transit time is not critical. They are worth pricing on routes you use repeatedly.
If you ship consistently, ask for an account rate. The threshold for a negotiated discount is lower than most small businesses assume, and the conversation costs nothing. Bring your actual monthly parcel count and average dimensions — a carrier rep can price against real numbers far more usefully than against an estimate.
Common questions
What is the cheapest way to ship a small parcel?
For lightweight items, the lowest-tier ground or economy service from a national carrier, bought through a postage platform rather than at a counter, is usually cheapest. For dense heavy items in a small box, a flat-rate service often wins because weight stops mattering.
Does the label itself cost anything?
Very little. Thermal labels are pennies each and letter sheets are similar. Effectively all of your shipping cost is postage, which is why rate selection matters far more than label sourcing.
Are free carrier boxes really free?
For the carrier's own flat-rate and branded services, yes — you order them at no cost. They are only usable for those specific services, so they are not a general-purpose box supply.
Is it cheaper to print labels at home?
Yes, once you ship regularly. A thermal printer removes ink costs entirely and pays for itself at modest volume. Below a few parcels a week, printing on plain paper and taping it on costs nothing extra and works fine.